MILAN – Ancestro Coffee, a family’s coffee business that has a deep-rooted history, originating with Maria’s great-grandfather, Carlos Enrique Rivera, whose passion and dedication for coffee cultivation near the Mesa de Elías Huila in Colombia set the foundation. As a representative of the south of Huila for the National Federation of Coffee Growers of Colombia (FNC), he didn’t only elevated the quality of coffee but also shared his expertise with few growers of the region.
Maria’s talk: “His legacy continues to inspire us today as we remain committed to community support and sustainable projects. Together, we envision a world where the art of coffee production is revered, and every cup tells of passion and dedication.
Now we did our first export last year to Europe sharing our story; selling to roasters and also roasting in Berlin. We want to continue the big tradition of our family we pledge to uphold transparent communication and provide coffee education for the next generation of growers, ensuring the continuation of our family’s tradition of producing high-quality beans.Now our main goal is to connect our farmers with roasters worldwide, we aim to share the story of our labor and dedication on a global scale.”
“In Colombia, the coffee industry faces several challenges”
“Climate Change: Colombia’s coffee-growing regions are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, including unpredictable weather patterns, increased pest and disease pressure, and rising temperatures. These factors threaten coffee yields and quality.
Market Access: access to international markets can be challenging for small-scale coffee farmers, particularly due to trade barriers, competition, and complex certification requirements for specialty markets.
Infrastructure and Technology: Limited access to infrastructure, such as roads and processing facilities, hinders the efficiency of coffee production and transportation.
Insecurity Issues: Issues such as rural poverty, labor rights, and gender inequality persist in many coffee-growing communities causing violence and crime.
Addressing these challenges requires collaboration among stakeholders, including government agencies, industry associations, NGOs, and international organizations. By working together to implement solutions that promote resilience, sustainability, and inclusivity, the Colombian coffee industry can overcome these obstacles and thrive in the future.”
Direct contacts with roasters: is it feasible, how do you do it, is it within the reach of all small farmers (who are the majority in Colombia)
“Direct contact with roasters is certainly feasible and can be highly beneficial. Establishing direct relationships with roasters allows farmers to gain better prices for their coffee, share their unique stories, and receive feedback that can help improve their product quality. This direct trade model can foster transparency and trust, ensuring that the value generated by high-quality coffee reaches the farmers more equitably.
However, the feasibility of direct contacts with roasters varies among small Colombian farmers due to several challenges. Access to reliable communication channels, language barriers, and the ability to meet the specific quality and quantity requirements of roasters can be significant hurdles. Additionally, marketing and networking skills are essential to establish and maintain these relationships.
To facilitate this, many small farmers join cooperatives or associations that can collectively manage direct trade relationships. These organizations often have the resources and expertise to connect with roasters, negotiate contracts, and ensure quality control. At Ancestro, we support initiatives that provide farmers with the necessary education and resources to engage in direct trade. This includes training on quality standards, communication skills, and the use of digital platforms for networking.
While direct contact with roasters may not be within the immediate reach of every small farmer, with the right support and resources, it becomes a viable and beneficial option. By working together and leveraging collective strengths, small farmers can successfully navigate the complexities of direct trade and build sustainable, profitable relationships with roasters.”
Can you tell us your opinion about the strong presence of the Colombian Coffee Federation, which regulates this product and its diffusion/sales a lot? Is it an asset for you farmers, or does it give some extra difficulty?
“The Colombian Coffee Federation (FNC) is both an asset and a challenge for farmers. It offers significant support through price stabilization and taxes. However, its stringent regulations can limit flexibility and innovation, especially for smaller farmers, and centralized control can reduce farmers’ autonomy in branding and sales. Despite these challenges, the benefits generally outweigh the difficulties, and finding a balance between high standards and individual growth is key.”
Coffees today that undergo alternative processes, such as fermentations, are a bit of a new trend for buyers: does it really present an opportunity for you as producers and how many really know how to handle this process scientifically?
“Alternative processes like fermentations do present a valuable opportunity for us as coffee producers. These methods allow us to differentiate our products and cater to a niche market that values unique and complex flavor profiles. Although the market for these specialty coffees is relatively small, it is growing and commands higher prices.
However, the scientific understanding and expertise required to handle these processes effectively are not yet widespread among all producers. Fermentation involves precise control over variables like temperature, time, and microbial activity, which can be challenging without proper knowledge and resources. Many producers are investing in training and collaborating with experts to improve their skills in these innovative methods.
At Ancestro, we emphasize the importance of education and support for farmers to successfully adopt and benefit from these alternative processes.
While the market for fermented and specialty coffees is not as large as the traditional coffee market, it offers significant potential for growth and profitability for those who can navigate its complexities. The key lies in continuous learning, innovation, and adaptation to meet the evolving preferences of coffee consumers.”
Is Italy an interesting market for Colombian coffee, or is it still struggling to break through in this country?
“Italy is indeed an interesting market for Colombian coffee. Traditionally known for its espresso culture, Italian consumers are becoming more open to specialty coffees and diverse flavor profiles, which is a positive sign for Colombian coffee.
However, breaking through in this market has its challenges due to entrenched preferences and the dominance of Italian coffee brands. Despite this, there is a growing appreciation for high-quality, single-origin coffees among Italian coffee enthusiasts, providing a valuable niche for Colombian coffee to thrive. Efforts in marketing, education about Colombian coffee’s unique qualities, and participation in Italian coffee fairs are helping to enhance our presence and appeal in this market.”
What is happening in Colombia to meet the new demands of environmental and social sustainability?
“In Colombia, the coffee sector is embracing both environmental and social sustainability, and Ancestro is at the forefront of these efforts.
Environmental Sustainability:
Sustainable Farming Practices: Adoption of organic farming, agroforestry, and natural fertilizers.
Water Conservation: Implementation of efficient water management systems like rainwater harvesting and wastewater treatment.
Climate Adaptation: Planting shade trees and using agroforestry systems to mitigate climate change impacts.
Social Sustainability:
1. Fair Trade and Direct Trade: Ensuring fair compensation for farmers to promote economic stability.
2. Education and Training: Providing young farmers with training on sustainable practices and business management.
3. Community Development: Investing in healthcare, education, and infrastructure to improve quality of life.
Ancestro supports these initiatives by working closely with farmers to implement best practices and provide necessary resources. This focus on sustainability aims to create a resilient and prosperous future for Colombian coffee. Through these efforts, Colombia’s coffee industry is not only meeting new sustainability demands but also setting an example for the global coffee sector.”
Young people in the plantations: the younger generation in Colombia is taking the reins of the business, or the phenomenon of leaving the fields to find work in the cities or even in other countries continues
“The dynamic of youth involvement in coffee plantations is mixed. While some young people are continuing to leave rural areas for opportunities in cities or abroad, there is also a noticeable trend of younger generations taking an active interest in coffee farming. This shift is often driven by innovative approaches to coffee production, such as specialty coffee and sustainable practices, which make the profession more appealing.
Additionally, in Ancestro we believe to support initiatives aimed at providing education, resources, and support to young coffee farmers and encouraging them to stay and innovate within the industry. The involvement of young people is crucial for the future of Colombian coffee, bringing fresh perspectives and energy to the sector.”
How do you see the next developments for Colombian coffee, also considering the many difficulties now dictated by price rises and transport problems?
“The future of Colombian coffee is poised for growth and adaptation despite the current challenges. The industry is likely to see further innovation in production techniques and value addition to cope with price volatility and transport issues. Digital transformation and technology adoption will play a significant role in optimizing supply chains and improving efficiency.
Producers are also likely to focus more on direct trade relationships and local processing to reduce dependency on volatile international markets. Sustainability will continue to be a key focus, with efforts to mitigate climate change impacts and enhance the resilience of coffee farming communities.
Overall, while challenges exist, the Colombian coffee industry is resilient and adaptable, also it is important to remark that our quality is outstanding in comparison to other countries.”
