Davide Cobelli shares with us an analysis regarding specialty coffee and how some companies exploit the specialty label without offering real products. A phenomenon that we can define as “Specialty Coffee Washing,” a disturbing parallel to greenwashing. Below, we share his opinion.
The world of specialty coffee
by Davide Cobelli
MILAN, Italy – The world of specialty coffee, even in Italy, has been in a ferment for over a decade. On one hand, a growing consumer awareness rewards quality and sustainability in all its facets. On the other hand, some companies, large and small, exploit the “specialty” label (or the image that specialty coffee produces) to cleanse themselves of the “commercial” stigma, without real products or practices that care for coffee or others. A phenomenon that we can define as “Specialty Coffee Washing,” a disturbing parallel to “greenwashing.”
“Specialty Coffee Washing”: a facade, little substance
Starting from the sustainability sector, “greenwashing” indicates the practice of companies presenting themselves as ecological without adopting concrete measures. Similarly, “Specialty Coffee Washing” manifests when brands of all sizes use the term “specialty” for their products, without respecting the quality and sustainability standards it implies. This means defining themselves as “specialty” roasters while having only one or two products in this range, while the rest of their catalog consists of lower quality products. This is sometimes enough to deceive the consumer, who thinks that the roaster generally sells specialty coffee.
These brands often purchase:
- Primarily low-quality coffee: Ignoring the rigorous bean selections, traceability, and micro-processing typical of specialty coffee.
- Coffee that exploits low-cost labor: Neglecting fair trade principles to the detriment of farmers.
- Products that use intensive agricultural practices: At the expense of biodiversity and the environment.
- Coffee that is then deceptively marketed: Putting one or two flagship (specialty) products and then trying to sell generic and untraceable coffee at very low prices.
Furthermore:
- They leverage consumer ignorance: In Italy, the specialty coffee market is still little known, and this allows certain companies to insinuate themselves with non-transparent communication.
- They deliberately use “artisan” packaging: We find beautiful 250g paper bags (only externally, a triple laminate), labels printed with the intent to appear artisanal.
- Communication that hints at craftsmanship: They circulate videos showing roasting in small roasters. Then, just pan the camera to see that they are in industrial plants where big bags and mountains of sacks of generic coffee are stored.
- They sell at impossible prices: By virtue of the fact that they actually have only a couple of bags of specialty out of hundreds stored, they use sales practices impossible to maintain if it were truly specialty, selling 80% of products that are single countries, of different areas mixed together (the famous Brazil Santos, Colombia Supremo, Guatemala SHB, etc.).
- They sell utility cars disguised as luxury cars: This comparison comes easily to me; taking low-quality coffee without traceability and masking it as described above is a bit like a car brand that produces supercars, with a body made of aluminum foil and a scooter engine, with a nice straw chair instead of a seat.
“Specialty Coffee Wishing”: an authentic desire for quality and sustainability
In contrast to “washing,” “Specialty Coffee Wishing” represents an authentic commitment to quality and sustainability. Just as in sustainability, where “wishing” represents a desire for a responsible future that translates into concrete actions.
True specialty coffee producers and roasters:
- Select high-quality beans: Caring for every stage, from cultivation to roasting.
- Support fair trade: Ensuring decent working conditions and fair prices for producers, paying more for the coffee than commercial rates.
- Adopt sustainable agricultural practices: Protecting the environment and biodiversity, supporting the supply chain economically at the local level.
- Promote transparency: Providing clear information on the origin and processing of coffee and all the extrinsic characteristics.
Beyond the label: conscious consumption
“Specialty Coffee Wishing” translates into a high-quality product, but also has a positive impact on the environment and grower communities. To counter “washing,” consumers must learn to:
- Educate themselves: Deepen their knowledge of specialty coffee and its standards.
- Choose carefully: Prefer small producers and roasters committed to sustainability.
- Read labels CAREFULLY: Verify origin, traceability, and certifications.
- Evaluate the roaster well when buying online: Often, when a roaster offers only a few “special” products, it’s just for show.
- Support fair trade, but also quality: Buying coffee with fair trade certifications is not always synonymous with quality, especially in supermarkets. The fair-trade market sometimes focuses only on sustainability, without a real commitment to quality.
The future of specialty coffee depends on a collective commitment. Let’s counter “washing” and support “wishing,” for a quality, sustainable, and fair coffee for all”
Davide Cobelli
