Coffee: Do Italians do it better? Definitely yes, according to BBC reporter Manuela Saragosa. “I am part-Italian and like most Italians, I like to think Italy represents the height of coffee culture, the standard against which all coffee should be measured,” says Saragosa in a report.
“When Italian friends and family shudder in disgust at the idea of sullying their precious cappuccino with a dash of hazelnut syrup or a sprinkling of cinnamon, I nod knowingly.”
“As far as I’m concerned, the cappuccinos, lattes and espressos served in branded coffee chains taste scorched and bitter, a shabby imitation of the real thing,” continues Saragosa adding that “ not only has Italian coffee been taken out of Italy, but the Italian is also being taken out of the coffee.”
“I think a caricature of Italian espresso was what was exported,” says award-winning barista James Hoffmann of London’s Square Mile Coffee Roasters in the same report.
“Global espresso culture is now a long way from what is considered traditional Italian espresso”.
Still, when it comes to taste and brewing style, Italy is trying to reclaim ground. The was set up to protect Italian-style coffee drinking.
“International chains of cafes are spreading, calling the coffee they serve Italian espresso,” Luigi Zecchini, chairman of the Italian Espresso National Institute (INEI) on the organisation’s website. But, “behind our espresso… there is a unique and unrepeatable culture.”
However, when it comes down to the raw beans themselves, on this front Italy doesn’t fare as well as many speciality coffee shops outside of the country, says the article. Part of the problem is with the price of “un caffe”. Most Italian bars will not charge more than one euro a cup.
“Such a low ceiling means the raw coffees in Italy are generally a little more commoditised, and there isn’t the option to purchase more high quality coffee,” Mr Hoffmann adds.
I still think I’ll be sticking to home-brewed coffee from my trusted moka machine. And I’ll continue to drink it the Italian way, concludes Saragosa.
“That means a short, sharp shot of espresso in the morning, perhaps even after dinner, but certainly no cappuccinos after 11am or any milk-based coffees after a meal. It doesn’t agree with the digestion. Every Italian knows that.”
You can read the full article at this link.
